Season opener, Gawalmandi to Shahalmi

First walk of the winter. Thirty eight of us, halwa puri at seven thirty, and a long stop at Shahalmi where an elderly shopkeeper told the group his father's version of 1947.

We start with halwa puri in Gawalmandi, the food street before food streets were a thing, and walk into the Walled City through Shahalmi, rebuilt from ash in a single year.